Friday, February 29, 2008

Japan Odelia VS. Ottawa Odelia

I remember going on an organized trip to Israel and feeling bullied into choosing one identity over another. “What are you first?” was the question we were asked to answer. “Human,” I said. I am a woman, a Canadian, a Jew, a journalist, a teacher (for now), a loving partner, a daughter, a sister, a friend… etc. Yes, it is true that each one of us has a variety of identities and, sometimes even, different qualities or traits to go with each. Sometimes our identities are based on our ancestry, our politics, or our relationships with others. They can also be based on geographic location.

When Noah was here in Japan, he pointed out how much he liked “Japan Odelia”: How much positive energy I have, assertiveness, willingness to explore, and even a newfound ability to ride a bicycle. Yes, I like me here too.

“Ottawa Odelia” is very different. “Please,” he said. “Can it be Japan Odelia who comes back to Ottawa?”

I don’t like Ottawa Odelia. In Ottawa, I am isolated, lonely, dependent, confused, stressed, incompetent, bored, etc. All of this makes me depressed and angry, which in turn makes me mean and cranky, which results in further isolation, and therefore more loneliness, confusion, stress, incompetence, boredom, etc. Get the picture? Yeah. It’s cost me dearly. And, despite this, I am pretty much thinking about returning there and possibly staying on more permanently – oh, the things we do for love.

But, I don’t like who I am there for the reasons stated above. And, although I am trying not to be, I am sad about the fact that I gave up so much to go there. It was totally willingly, mind you. But in the process of moving, I left behind my family, my work, my friends, my own little radio show, my contacts, my independence, and more. Some of these things may be rebuilt over time, but others are gone for good.

I keep trying to think of ways to make the situation in Ottawa better. What do I need to do or find in order to be happy? How can I make this poison in my heart into medicine? I was hoping to find the answers in Japan. If anything, this experience has made it that much clearer to me that Ottawa doesn’t feel like my home. The thought of returning there is depressing. And, I still don’t have the answers I was looking for.

So now, I am thinking about how I might be able to buy more time. I am thinking it might involve drastic change and breaking my own heart by giving up on something I have dreamed about since I was a child.

I’ve been exploring some other options and invitations. These opportunities might mean I wouldn’t have to return to my boring life in Ottawa, just yet or for long. These opportunities might lead to more travel and chances to live aboard. But I don’t know if that is realistic, responsible or even possible. I must make choices.

One opportunity is far more exciting to others than it is to me. It’s an opportunity I am 100 per cent unsure about. It’s an opportunity that would cost me money. The funny thing is, even though I am far less sure about wanting this than I was about coming to Japan, I know it comes with status and so even if I would be biding my time with this option, few would dare criticize me for doing so. It promises safety, if not happiness.

And Japan Odelia, while she has a lot to share with and teach Ottawa Odelia, exists only in Japan.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

♥ It’s Valentine’s Day! ♥

You know, I thought I would be miserable and sad today, all alone and with Noah on the other side of the world. But, I discovered something. Teachers have it best on Valentine’s Day. Especially here in Japan where the gift of choice is chocolate, homemade if you’ve got it. (Can you tell I’m on a bit of a sugar high?)

I managed quite the haul too: four bundles of homemade sweets, one chocolate square, three random tastings of other treats in the halls and 12 Valentine’s Day cards.

Here’s what the students wrote to me:

- HAPPY VALENTINE!! Thank you for your English lesson. Buy the way, Do you like chocolate? I love chocolate and like cooking sweets. I made chocolate for Valentine’s day yesterday. It is very delicious!! So I’m very happy now.

- Happy Valentine’s Day – Your secret Admirer

- Happy Valentine’s Day! I love you ♥ Let’s have tea time again! Bye

- Happy Valentine’s Day! You are very funny. Please remember Japanese! I study English, too!

- Happy Valentine’s Day! Give me chocolate!

- Happy Valentine’s Day! My walth is meeting you. My feel to you is between like and love.

- Roses are red, and violets are blue. chocolate is sweet but not as sweet as you ♥

- Happy Valentine’s Day!! You are special teacher for me! I want to know more about you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! I like your English class very much. I’m enjoying them. I hope to see more of you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! I’m very pleasure to meet you. I respect you. I hope to see more of you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! You are special to me because you are great teacher. I want to talk in English with you. But I can’t speak English well. So, I will study hard two grade. and I will talk happily with you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! B.T.F. you are special to me because your’s English class is fun. Class on Feburuary 12 is very fun.

(B.T.F. stands for “Best Teacher Forever.” I taught them B.F.F. for their cards.)

To be fair, my card count is probably partly due to the fact that the cards were all made in my classes, as part of a lesson on the holiday. Valentines aren’t popular here. (For some reason, I got it into my head that it would be fun – fun? – to collect and redistribute hundreds of cards from first and second year students. I seem to recall this being a project the entire student council used to organize when I was a kid. Yeah, I’m a little crazy.)

But still, I enjoyed it. And, it’s so nice to be loved!

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Yuki Matsuri

I am cold. I am FREEZING. I am sitting on the floor, wrapped in a blanket, typing and shivering. The space heater is about as close as it can be without my hair catching fire and I still can’t seem to warm up. And, while most of me is just plain cold, my right hand is an actual block of ice. Oh, and I am at home in Ota, central Japan. I am here and I am dreaming of the warmth of northern Sapporo.

Sapporo was wonderful! Last weekend, I met up with my friend Sonia and another ALT from her town for the famous, annual Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) in the prefecture of Hokkaido.

I am going to pause my story here for a moment to apologize. I would like to say sorry to all of the ALTs I said were crazy for requesting a northern placement. After seeing this part of the country for myself, I now totally understand why you would want to live here. In fact, I think you are so very lucky to be able to experience such a beautiful part of Japan.

Hokkaido is romanticized by the Japanese. My students write fairytale stories about falling in love, marrying and moving to this nature rich part of the country. As for me, I only had a few days to enjoy this winter wonderland.

My plane touched down just outside of Sapporo at about 10 am on Friday morning. It was a bit of a crazy trip that began with a 4 am cycle to the station, followed by a sweltering bus ride through snarled Tokyo traffic, and included a mad dash to make the flight. By 11:15, I was at the tourist office collecting maps and other goodies. And at 12:30, my friend Sonia and Heidi arrived at out downtown hotel.


Immediately, we began touring, and tasting. Our first stop was for a big bowl of delicious and fresh ramen noodles from a famous alleyway lined with closet-sized shops.



Next, we walked to Odori Park to check out the snow and ice sculptures. Some walking, then straight up the TV Tower for a view of the city as large flakes of fluffy snow drifted down. A little more Odori Park. Next, we made our way to the Tokei-dai, a famous clock tower in the heart of Sapporo with a small civic museum.



Back to the hotel for a short rest and to add some clothing layers, and we were off again. Our evening destination was the Sapporo Beer Factory. We were looking for THE Beer Garden restaurant, but we settled for A Beer Garden after discovering a multitude of choices. We downed some premium beer and grilled slices of fresh lamb and vegetables at our table. Each diner was served a bib to keep clean and a large plastic bag to cover our coats and bags with in an attempt to keep everything we own from absorbing the juicy smell of the meat.




A little more Odori Park, a few ice sculptures, and a hot drink and we were ready to call it a night.



The next day was our chance to explore a little further out. In the morning, we took a bus to another part of the festival fun. It was mostly for kids, but we gladly got in on the fun by plunging down an icy inner tube hill and getting lost in a giant snow maze.

Our next destination was the city of Otaru. It was stunning. Otaru is a beautiful, old city with a romantic canal and intriguing brick warehouses, many now occupied by glass artists. After dark, the city put on a breathtaking display of glass and snow lanterns. I had never seen a snow lantern before. It’s just a cylinder of packed snow with a candle stuck in the centre. The orange glow is subtle and warm.


On Sunday morning, we climbed aboard a downtown streetcar and up a mountain via ropeway. Then into a bus that had triangles where round wheels should have been. It gripped and packed the snow as it transported us to the observatory. The view from Mt. Moiwa was spectacular. Blue, blue sky, not a cloud in sight. The snowy mountains to our left, the city reaching out to the distant shore on our right.


A few last sights before it was time to go. We explored the red brick government building with its free museum inside. And, I enjoyed a hot bowl of curry soup before the long journey south to my frosty home in Ota.


My nose is cold. Toes too. Warm thoughts, warm thoughts, warm thoughts…

Take a look at some photos from the trip.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Noah’s Visit

My aunt Julie phoned me today. It’s such a treat to get a phone call or a hand written letter from friends and family back home. Julie is my number one pen pal, but she seldom calls.

“How was Noah’s visit?” she asked. “Why didn’t you write anything about his trip?”

I’m not sure. I’ve been busy, but this past week has been good. Have I been a little lazy? Maybe.

I think the truth is that Noah’s visit really feels more like a dream now. It has since he left Ota. It’s hard to recall and articulate dreams. But, here goes.

I am so happy to be in Japan. It’s been a wonderful adventure and one that I wanted to share with Noah. Sure, I write and call and send pictures, but I wanted him to see it, and smell it and taste it for himself.

I also wanted to see Noah. And when I spotted him on the bus from the airport, I was excited, happy, nervous, anxious, eager… And so our adventures in Japan began.

His first day here and we were already off exploring. My kind and generous friends were able to help me borrow a bike and Noah and I rode around the city to some of the more scenic spots. We even found energy to hike up a mountain. Okay it was a small mountain, but still. Oh, and we ran into some of my students, much to their obvious delight.


The next morning, we headed out early and caught the train to Tokyo. It was so much fun to play tourist with Noah. It can be easy to forget the feeling of wonder I had when I first arrived. A visitor helps me to remember. And, it was nice that Noah found a delicious sushi restaurant for us to enjoy.




Our next big outing was to the home of my supervisor’s family for something very traditional, very Japanese, and very tasty. Noah and I were invited to Maruhashi sensei’s in-laws’ to make mochi, sticky rice cakes, for New Year’s. What an honour to be able to participate in a family event like this. There was lots of pounding, rolling, tasting, eating, and more eating.






After the mochi party, Noah and were driven directly to the train station. From there, we headed south and then west by bullet train to the ancient city of Kyoto. The city was magical. Our hotel was not. The owner a little on the disconcerting side as well. He kindly showed us some maps and highlights of the city, but lectured us about the brevity of our stay. The room was cold, drafty and felt kinda dirty – a fact that was more exemplified than hidden by the car air freshener theme in the bathroom. And when I asked for a suggestion about where to eat, I was repeatedly told only the fast food spots near the train station were within my budget. The nerve. Instead, we went to Gion for 6-dollar okonomiyaki.


The next morning, the hotel owner greeted us with a genuine smile and helped us sort out rented bikes and gloves for a day of touring in Kyoto. Everywhere we went people were getting ready for the night’s festivities. We joined in the fun at the Yasaka Shrine. We ate festival food, watched people light ropes to start their own New Year’s fires at home, and squeezed into a long line to experience the ringing of the temple bell by Buddhist monks.


On the first day of the year, we went to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. So did everyone else in Kyoto, it seemed. But it was just beautiful. Rows of orange torii gates wrapped around the mountainside like ribbon and the contrast with the green trees and grey stone cemeteries was astonishing.


That afternoon we headed to Osaka and our seemingly luxurious accommodations, by contrast any way, at the Ramada. Here, we had time to relax, catch up and enjoy a slower pace of travel. We climbed up the city’s castle, enjoyed the energy of America Mura, and devoured seasonal grilled crab legs.


Our culinary explorations didn’t end there. We decided to go to Kobe for…
Kobe beef! And it was absolutely, melt-in-your-mouth delicious. It even made up for the day’s wet weather and confusion about the Earthquake museum. The man at the subway station’s ticket booth was kind enough to give us directions, but he obviously had something he wanted to articulate and couldn’t figure out how to express to a couple of English speakers. As it turned out, the main part of the museum was closed for renovations.


After Kobe and Osaka, we headed to Hiroshima, our final destination. It was modern, beautiful and moving. So many reminders of the death and destruction as well as the ardent hope for peace. On our way back to the hotel the first night, Noah spotted an old European looking building. Too old, he remarked, to have been built after the war. Sure enough, a daytime visit confirmed that this was one of the only buildings in the area to have survived the atomic bomb blast. Inside were millions of paper cranes folded by children from all around the world.


Miyajima Island and her deer entertained us the rest of the day. It was low tide and so we were able to get a close up view of the famous torii gate. The overbearing deer nibbled on our shopping bags, and jackets and tried to steal our onigiri. The grilled oysters made a tasty and satisfying snack for humans like us. Mmmmmm!






Those were the highlights. We made our way back to Tokyo for a brief stay and Noah spent a few days in Ota while I went off to work.

Noah came to class with me one morning. The students were so excited to meet him. There was screaming and laughing. Several came running for handshakes and personal introductions. You would think they were meeting a rock star.


The visit was too short. And, all too soon, it was January 11th and time for Noah to head home. That morning, I was the one who had to say goodbye and leave first. I had lessons at my visit school. Noah took a cab to the train station where the airport shuttle bus picked him up. And just like that, he was gone. Sort of.

Noah’s flight to Canada was cancelled that night. He was given vouchers for a hotel room and meals at the Hilton in Narita. For another 12 hours Noah was in Japan, stuck out by the airport, a three-hour journey from my home. It was excruciating to think that he was so close and yet so far.

Now, Noah is on the other side of the earth. And, every Friday when I get on the bus to my visit school, I have this terrible feeling as if I’ve left something important at home.

Album One

Album Two

Friday, February 1, 2008

Confessions

It’s one month into the New Year and I have to get some stuff off my chest. I am not an angel, in case you didn’t already know that. I hope none of this is too shocking.

Confession #1

I don’t like tempura. I tell everyone that, when it comes to food, I will eat anything. I can even stomach natto. Tempura, however, makes me want to puke (well, hours later.) The problem is, sometimes wonderful and kind people who insist on ordering for me take me out for a meal and they order… TEMPURA. I eat it. I lie. So there.

Confession #2

Remember that dirty and disgusting house I ended up at when I first arrived? Well, when I moved out I took a few extra little things with me. Here’s an itemized list:
- one pair of scissors
- a roll of packing tape
- a small flashlight
- 2 paperback novels
- half a roll of two-ply toilet paper
Therefore, I am a liar AND a thief.

Don’t hate me yet? Okay, how’s this.

Confession #3

I am a grumpy grinch!
Now, this just happened about 1.5 hours ago and I am waiting for the police to show up at my door and arrest me. My school has already been called, and I hope they accept my lame explanation.

Basically, this is what happened. In December, my students wrote letters to Santa in Canada via the Canada Post programme. The response letters made their way back but with several additional letters to kids in different parts of Japan and several for children in France. FRANCE!

I head to the JP post office, finally, with the best of intentions and some of my own mail and a package. Figuring out how to mail the package is a trial in itself, but we manage. Then, I try to forward these Santa letters and they explain to me that the envelopes are too big for their postal system… there is a huge surcharge for these things. I try to explain that these are lost letters; that they’re not mine. Confusion. I try to explain that I will put them in one envelope then and just send them back to Canada. They want to give me a special delivery EMS envelope. No thanks, why pay the extra to return mail? Why can’t I mail it surface mail? I am frustrated and tired of these letters, so I go to put them in the trash. NO!!! Okay, so they won’t let me throw them out there.

We start over again. This time, I stupidly mention that I am an English ALT at Ota Girls’ and try to explain that these letters are lost and were sent to me by mistake. They try to get someone who speaks English on the phone. I am trapped and have just about enough of the whole thing. We don’t get any further. More frustration. I try and fail again at attempting to toss the letters in their garbage. I leave. I spot a mailbox and think, “These are either lost with me, or lost with a postal service. I am sure they will have better luck with the postal service. After all, if I was in Canada…” My address isn’t on the letters, only Santa’s in Canada, and the indented recipients. So, I shove them in the box, not even considering the fact that I have another option: walk away, relax, and try another way at another time.

So, now the letters are out of my possession; I don’t know if the kids who originally mailed Santa will ever get their mail; my school was called by the post office to alert them that there was some confusion (great!); and I feel like crap and am waiting to see if the police will come get me for putting strange packages in the mail.

There, so how do you like me now?