Monkeys!

I recall a deep, philosophical question once posed by a group of musically inclined young lads while pondering the possible ways in which large sums of money could be spent to promote amorous relations. I believe the exact words were, “Haven’t you always wanted a monKEY?”

Hey, who hasn’t? Cute and loveable, almost like mini versions of human beings. Trouble too, mind you, but that’s all part of the fun.

Realistically though, owning a monkey is probably not a good idea for most of us. It’s probably a very, very bad idea. So, the next best thing is socializing with monkeys in a snowy mountaintop setting.

“Where can you do this?” you ask. In Nagano, Japan.

On Saturday, I joined Caitlin, the queen of day trips, and two other friends for a trek to Yudanaka to see wild snow monkey’s at the monkey onsen. It was quite the journey. It was long, and a tad costly too.

Local trains from Ota to Takasaki (with a switch in Isesaki) – 700 yen
Bullet train from Takasaki to Nagano city – 4,410 yen
Local train to Yudanaka – 1,230 yen
Bus to Monkey Park – 250 yen

That’s 6,590 yen one way, or almost $64 Canadian. But hey, how else can you hang out with monkeys? And the ticket in to the Jigokudani (Monkey) Park was only 500 yen.

The truth is, I am not the best candidate for such an adventure. I am slightly afraid of most animals, including my cat some of the time. I freaked out for about 3 weeks this past July after Noah made me hand-feed a squirrel that scratched me.

But the monkeys were amazing! Even spotting them in the distance was a thrill. These lucky little monkeys managed a long time ago to take over a natural onsen and spend their winters soaking in hot water and being on display for tourists of all kinds.

I couldn’t believe how close you could get to these little creatures. You could see the wrinkles on their knuckles, their sunburned faces, the pinpoint pupils in their yellow eyes. And teeth. Despite all my attempts to stay safe, I managed to provoke an aggressive little guy into snarls and a wide-mouthed display of his chompers. I escaped unscathed. (Well, except for the giant bruise on my backside from the fall I took on the icy path back to the bus stop.)

You’re not allowed to actually reach out and touch the monkeys but they are allowed to touch people. Every once in a while a baby would poke a tourist or even leap up and latch on hoping for a bite of button or some other snack-like accessory. My friends handled this well. I don’t know that I would have.

http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/livecam/monkey/index.htm - This link should take you to a live camera of the monkey onsen.

Here are some more pictures of this winter adventure.

On Daikon

How do you know when this root is ready to be harvested and devoured? These veggies seem to communicate in not so subtle ways that they’ve had it with their soiled home.

And, if you leave them long enough, your daikon might just get up and walk away.

A pain in the mouth

Ah, relief, mixed with confusion, mixed with fatigue.

I finally made it all the way to Takasaki yesterday to see the dentist. I was up at a good hour, rode my bike in the sunshine and didn’t get lost on my walk from the station to her office.

The dentist was friendly, professional and quick. Cheap too. It was less than my last appointment.

On arrival, I explained the cracked tooth situation and how the filling came out, etc. and relayed the advice of my dentist. What was strange is the fact that she seemed reluctant to do anything. I had to tell her several times that it hurts when I eat before she decided to fill something with the recommended filler. I found this odd because my dentist at home seemed to think a cracked tooth is pretty serious business and warned me to take action in order to avoid a root canal.

The dentist here explained that the crack was very small and on the corner of my tooth… again strange because I was told it was a risk of splitting to the nerve, no just resulting in a little chip off the side.

I was told to be careful. Apparently, without drilling a deeper hole, which she didn’t want to do because she didn’t want to remove any of my enamel, the filling is just, kinda resting there. Hmm, so maybe this is why the last one fell out after all and it had nothing to do with the quality of the work. Could it have been my fault over-doing the flossing?

The other thing is, and it will take a few days for me to decide if it was just my imagination or not, my tooth may have hurt just the tiniest little bit when I was eating breakfast this morning. Just a mini pinch.

But, you know what? Regardless, I have had enough with dentists here. I am giving up. It’s simply too difficult to try and communicate about this. So, whether it’s the actual crack that was looked after, or some wee chip on the side, I don’t care… along as most of me gets home in one piece.

So, I went with friends to Kawagoe today. It’s a city famous for it’s candy. Take that teeth!

Click here for photos from my trip to Kawagoe and other spring outings.

Cracked tooth, broken dream

Okay, no broken dreams here. I made that title up just for effect. And, I thought it was a pretty good segue from my last post. Unfortunately, the bit about the cracked tooth is true.

I have strange teeth. Aside from the fact that they are a little small for my head, I mean. Not a single cavity to date in my adult set of teeth, but they chip and break and do annoying things like that. (And yes, before anyone starts theorizing about the reason for this, I do grind my teeth a little and my dentist at home takes good care of me.)

A few years ago I actually managed to crack a tooth. It was a molar on the lower, left side, one from the back. A quick trip to the dentist and I was patched up as good as almost new and on my way again.

Fast forward to Japan, January 2008.

Ouch!

I’m eating and I have a quick, sharp pain on the left side. Strangely reminiscent of something, but what? It happens when I bite down on things with little grainy bits, like sugar crystals, or salt and pepper, or even curry powder. I find myself peering, with gapping jaw, into mirrors and worrying.

Around the same time my friend Bahia loses a crown and is talking lots about finding a dentist here in Japan. I can’t put this tooth thing out of my mind. I decide to get it checked out.

“I have a problem,” I tell my supervisor one Thursday. I tell him I have a toothache and I need help finding a dentist. I arrange for my friend Reina to join me as my interpreter and my supervisor books me in for an appointment after work on Monday.

My attempts to get lost on the way to the dental clinic are futile and Reina and I arrive five minutes early. We fill out the requisite paperwork and wait. Once in the chair, the dentist checks things out, does a quick x-ray and tells me I have a filling in the tooth I am complaining about. That, and a little redness around the gums, but he figures a quick touchup of the filling and I should be in good shape. A little polishing; a touch of drilling so light, it was more like sanding; and a tiny dab of filing stuff, and I am sent on my way. Thanks to a great insurance policy, it only costs me about $16 out of pocket. To thank Reina, and test out the repair, I treat to sushi.

Later that night I start on my regular bedtime routine. PJs, check; e-mail, check; bathroom, check; brushing, check; drink of water, check; flossing… Flossing doesn’t go so well. See, where the little dental touchup was done, I can’t get the floss in between the teeth.

Just… a… little… pushing… and… THERE!

I get the floss in and struggle to get it back out. And, when it finally does come out, it brings white stuff out with it. Meh, it could just be some residue that got packed in there. No worries. The next day I inform my supervisor that everything is great in the tooth department.

Ouch!

Oh god, the pain is back. I am embarrassed. I don’t want to go back to my supervisor for help, or bother Reina again because she’s very busy. Maybe it’s all in my head.

Ouch!

Nope, it’s real. I tell my parents about the problem and ask them to check with my dentist at home to confirm about the location of this old, cracked tooth. My memory is fuzzy and I want to be sure I’m not imagining things. Sure enough, it’s the cracked molar from years ago. This isn’t good. And, I manage to worry my parents sufficiently enough that they decide to mail me a small tube of toothpaste from home that arrives at school in an envelope filled with bubble wrap and oozy, gooey toothpaste. My desk smells minty fresh now.

Tomorrow will be attempt number two. I’ve decided to try Bahia’s English speaking dentist in Takasaki. I am going armed with better knowledge of what the problem actually is this time, and some treatment recommendations from my favourite dentist back home. I am hopping on the train and devoting an entire Saturday to looking after this annoying tooth.

Oh, and did I mention I am slightly afraid of visiting dentists, particularly new ones? That’s why I am still up at 2:00 writing about this rather than sleeping. And, I’m pondering… Is the “Fluoriguard” in my made-for-Japan Colgate anything like real fluoride?

Japan Odelia VS. Ottawa Odelia

I remember going on an organized trip to Israel and feeling bullied into choosing one identity over another. “What are you first?” was the question we were asked to answer. “Human,” I said. I am a woman, a Canadian, a Jew, a journalist, a teacher (for now), a loving partner, a daughter, a sister, a friend… etc. Yes, it is true that each one of us has a variety of identities and, sometimes even, different qualities or traits to go with each. Sometimes our identities are based on our ancestry, our politics, or our relationships with others. They can also be based on geographic location.

When Noah was here in Japan, he pointed out how much he liked “Japan Odelia”: How much positive energy I have, assertiveness, willingness to explore, and even a newfound ability to ride a bicycle. Yes, I like me here too.

“Ottawa Odelia” is very different. “Please,” he said. “Can it be Japan Odelia who comes back to Ottawa?”

I don’t like Ottawa Odelia. In Ottawa, I am isolated, lonely, dependent, confused, stressed, incompetent, bored, etc. All of this makes me depressed and angry, which in turn makes me mean and cranky, which results in further isolation, and therefore more loneliness, confusion, stress, incompetence, boredom, etc. Get the picture? Yeah. It’s cost me dearly. And, despite this, I am pretty much thinking about returning there and possibly staying on more permanently – oh, the things we do for love.

But, I don’t like who I am there for the reasons stated above. And, although I am trying not to be, I am sad about the fact that I gave up so much to go there. It was totally willingly, mind you. But in the process of moving, I left behind my family, my work, my friends, my own little radio show, my contacts, my independence, and more. Some of these things may be rebuilt over time, but others are gone for good.

I keep trying to think of ways to make the situation in Ottawa better. What do I need to do or find in order to be happy? How can I make this poison in my heart into medicine? I was hoping to find the answers in Japan. If anything, this experience has made it that much clearer to me that Ottawa doesn’t feel like my home. The thought of returning there is depressing. And, I still don’t have the answers I was looking for.

So now, I am thinking about how I might be able to buy more time. I am thinking it might involve drastic change and breaking my own heart by giving up on something I have dreamed about since I was a child.

I’ve been exploring some other options and invitations. These opportunities might mean I wouldn’t have to return to my boring life in Ottawa, just yet or for long. These opportunities might lead to more travel and chances to live aboard. But I don’t know if that is realistic, responsible or even possible. I must make choices.

One opportunity is far more exciting to others than it is to me. It’s an opportunity I am 100 per cent unsure about. It’s an opportunity that would cost me money. The funny thing is, even though I am far less sure about wanting this than I was about coming to Japan, I know it comes with status and so even if I would be biding my time with this option, few would dare criticize me for doing so. It promises safety, if not happiness.

And Japan Odelia, while she has a lot to share with and teach Ottawa Odelia, exists only in Japan.

♥ It’s Valentine’s Day! ♥

You know, I thought I would be miserable and sad today, all alone and with Noah on the other side of the world. But, I discovered something. Teachers have it best on Valentine’s Day. Especially here in Japan where the gift of choice is chocolate, homemade if you’ve got it. (Can you tell I’m on a bit of a sugar high?)

I managed quite the haul too: four bundles of homemade sweets, one chocolate square, three random tastings of other treats in the halls and 12 Valentine’s Day cards.

Here’s what the students wrote to me:

- HAPPY VALENTINE!! Thank you for your English lesson. Buy the way, Do you like chocolate? I love chocolate and like cooking sweets. I made chocolate for Valentine’s day yesterday. It is very delicious!! So I’m very happy now.

- Happy Valentine’s Day – Your secret Admirer

- Happy Valentine’s Day! I love you ♥ Let’s have tea time again! Bye

- Happy Valentine’s Day! You are very funny. Please remember Japanese! I study English, too!

- Happy Valentine’s Day! Give me chocolate!

- Happy Valentine’s Day! My walth is meeting you. My feel to you is between like and love.

- Roses are red, and violets are blue. chocolate is sweet but not as sweet as you ♥

- Happy Valentine’s Day!! You are special teacher for me! I want to know more about you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! I like your English class very much. I’m enjoying them. I hope to see more of you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! I’m very pleasure to meet you. I respect you. I hope to see more of you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! You are special to me because you are great teacher. I want to talk in English with you. But I can’t speak English well. So, I will study hard two grade. and I will talk happily with you.

- Happy Valentine’s Day! B.T.F. you are special to me because your’s English class is fun. Class on Feburuary 12 is very fun.

(B.T.F. stands for “Best Teacher Forever.” I taught them B.F.F. for their cards.)

To be fair, my card count is probably partly due to the fact that the cards were all made in my classes, as part of a lesson on the holiday. Valentines aren’t popular here. (For some reason, I got it into my head that it would be fun – fun? – to collect and redistribute hundreds of cards from first and second year students. I seem to recall this being a project the entire student council used to organize when I was a kid. Yeah, I’m a little crazy.)

But still, I enjoyed it. And, it’s so nice to be loved!

Yuki Matsuri

I am cold. I am FREEZING. I am sitting on the floor, wrapped in a blanket, typing and shivering. The space heater is about as close as it can be without my hair catching fire and I still can’t seem to warm up. And, while most of me is just plain cold, my right hand is an actual block of ice. Oh, and I am at home in Ota, central Japan. I am here and I am dreaming of the warmth of northern Sapporo.

Sapporo was wonderful! Last weekend, I met up with my friend Sonia and another ALT from her town for the famous, annual Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) in the prefecture of Hokkaido.

I am going to pause my story here for a moment to apologize. I would like to say sorry to all of the ALTs I said were crazy for requesting a northern placement. After seeing this part of the country for myself, I now totally understand why you would want to live here. In fact, I think you are so very lucky to be able to experience such a beautiful part of Japan.

Hokkaido is romanticized by the Japanese. My students write fairytale stories about falling in love, marrying and moving to this nature rich part of the country. As for me, I only had a few days to enjoy this winter wonderland.

My plane touched down just outside of Sapporo at about 10 am on Friday morning. It was a bit of a crazy trip that began with a 4 am cycle to the station, followed by a sweltering bus ride through snarled Tokyo traffic, and included a mad dash to make the flight. By 11:15, I was at the tourist office collecting maps and other goodies. And at 12:30, my friend Sonia and Heidi arrived at out downtown hotel.


Immediately, we began touring, and tasting. Our first stop was for a big bowl of delicious and fresh ramen noodles from a famous alleyway lined with closet-sized shops.



Next, we walked to Odori Park to check out the snow and ice sculptures. Some walking, then straight up the TV Tower for a view of the city as large flakes of fluffy snow drifted down. A little more Odori Park. Next, we made our way to the Tokei-dai, a famous clock tower in the heart of Sapporo with a small civic museum.



Back to the hotel for a short rest and to add some clothing layers, and we were off again. Our evening destination was the Sapporo Beer Factory. We were looking for THE Beer Garden restaurant, but we settled for A Beer Garden after discovering a multitude of choices. We downed some premium beer and grilled slices of fresh lamb and vegetables at our table. Each diner was served a bib to keep clean and a large plastic bag to cover our coats and bags with in an attempt to keep everything we own from absorbing the juicy smell of the meat.




A little more Odori Park, a few ice sculptures, and a hot drink and we were ready to call it a night.



The next day was our chance to explore a little further out. In the morning, we took a bus to another part of the festival fun. It was mostly for kids, but we gladly got in on the fun by plunging down an icy inner tube hill and getting lost in a giant snow maze.

Our next destination was the city of Otaru. It was stunning. Otaru is a beautiful, old city with a romantic canal and intriguing brick warehouses, many now occupied by glass artists. After dark, the city put on a breathtaking display of glass and snow lanterns. I had never seen a snow lantern before. It’s just a cylinder of packed snow with a candle stuck in the centre. The orange glow is subtle and warm.


On Sunday morning, we climbed aboard a downtown streetcar and up a mountain via ropeway. Then into a bus that had triangles where round wheels should have been. It gripped and packed the snow as it transported us to the observatory. The view from Mt. Moiwa was spectacular. Blue, blue sky, not a cloud in sight. The snowy mountains to our left, the city reaching out to the distant shore on our right.


A few last sights before it was time to go. We explored the red brick government building with its free museum inside. And, I enjoyed a hot bowl of curry soup before the long journey south to my frosty home in Ota.


My nose is cold. Toes too. Warm thoughts, warm thoughts, warm thoughts…

Take a look at some photos from the trip.